Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind
Bike started and cranked fine, but if I let it idle a long time, it would have a dead battery. I didn't check what amperage the kit was drawing, because I didn't think of that. I noticed a few things - the voltage reading in my procal logs was waaaay low at idle, and came right back up to where it should be the rest of my ride, then way low again when I would stop at long lights
- When I used the brake light, I could see (on data logs) and feel (while riding) the idle start oscillating.
- it was much better when the sensors were unplugged, as far as oscillations were concerned
so on a hunch, I decided that the headlight was the single highest power draw on the bike. I rolled into my driveway one day, and popped the H4 plug out, and wah-lah. A nicely idling bike. So I changed my headlight for HID. I also raised my idle to about 1600. The combination has not given my any problems since, even when the radiator fan kicks in at lights. No more dying bike, no more electrical problems. 
NOTE: I don't have a stock battery, as I had to replace the stocker and I chose a tiny one instead. I'm the only person who I know of who's had this issue. |
Keeping in mind that alternators don't put out much power while the engine is idling normally, they will actually put out less power than the engine uses to run, this is not a surprise. Raising your idle speed confirms this. I thought that HIDs drew more current than normal halogen bulbs however.
I have not played with procal, however I know that there generally compensations for voltage for the timing, idle speed, and a few other things that could possibly be adjusted and possibly could help. I haven't played with them in SManager on my car, however if there was a way to adjust it to raise the engine speed if the voltage dips, it could help. It would need an IAC or some other way to create a vacuum leak though to raise the idle.