View Single Post
Old November 16th, 2021, 11:35 PM   #102
Bob KellyIII
Retired motorcycle Mc.
 
Bob KellyIII's Avatar
 
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc,2001 Honda XR650L.

Posts: A lot.
LOL Jim ! it better not be 90% or we're all screwed ! but I get the point.
over the years you can get damn accurate on diagnosing problems on the internal combustion engine...as you know and this doesn't feel like electrical to me it feels like carburation !
.... anyway I have the carbs back on now and I discovered that their loose even after snugging them up.... it's those stand off studs ! so I need to find 4- 3/8" lock washers to replace the thin large hole washers that are on it.... then it will snug up like it should....their rubber O ring idea I think sucks which is what it is supposed to have on it.... I ain't doing that ! I want the carbs on there solid !
not able to flex !
I cleaned both carbs again and checked to see how big a hole was in that bushing/ pilot jet and I got to the 3rd size up on the long torch tip cleaner thing I got for the ninja.... why I had to go so small to get through it I don't know
but I am definately through it now ! I have some normal small zinc coated wire
that should have fit but it never did.... and when it finally broke through it felt like gravel... crunching as it went through so it was a rock or something
might'a been rust from the tank, I did see a spot or two in there that look suspisious ! how it got past those filters is anyones guess ! LOL
....
but both idle jets are definitely clear, the original jets are back in as well as the needle jets so it SHOULD work...once I tighten down the carbs better.
the needles are in the middle slot where they are supposed to be as well.
....
the way they designed the intake studs is really silly to me, they put a shoulder on the stud so the nut bottoms out and the pressure of the squeezed O ring is supposed to hold the carb firmly... which obviously it does the job.
to get rid of the O ring takes 2 thick washers then a normal washer for 1/4"
bolts on top of those and the locking nut. all that just to push the carb flange to the manifold. when I got it both carbs were warped because the previous owner really ronched down on those nuts trying to get them tight and then stripped 2 of them.... so I filed the ears flat again replaced the studs that were stripped and got the proper locking nuts for it.
but now my spacing is off just a bit so I have to scrounge up some washers !
I don't want to warp the carbs any more than they are but I do want them on there solidly .
...
if it doesn't start and run like it should now, then I am doing something wrong. but unfortionately I do not expect it to as i found NOTHING WRONG !
....perhaps these old Triumphs are a bitch to get going and warmed up... I don't know...I've never had one before.... they should be a One Kick affair
and start easy once everything is all fine tuned and all ... but so far it is not proving to be that way....
.....
I can get it to fire on gas now, so my starting routine seams to be working
but it's not continuing to run...and it won't idle so I can fine tune it
....once I get the carbs anchored down good I will have to check the synchronization of the slides as this thing is likely to change at the drop of a hat... for some reason putting on the tank changes the carb synchronization
and it shouldn't for any reason and I don't see where it's bending the cables
they are tucked up under it but you have to un tuck them to adjust the sync
a long drawn out process to get it spot on ! kind'a weird !
....
later !
Bob.......
__________________________________________________
Its too late when you've gone too far !
Bob KellyIII is offline   Reply With Quote