Quote:
Originally Posted by shspvr
DannoXYZ if he moves the gray wire from pin 1 over to pin 2 like in the photo where pin 2 was the direct 12v source with key on right ?, ok now where pin 1 should have no volt or ground source load when the key was on right, so if he then left the resistor in same place he there for bypasses the resistor when should have been solider one end of resistor onto pin 2 and other end of the resistor on direct to the gray wire, I'm sure there has to be set min of volt that is need on gray wire for it to function and that 6.9v maybe to low that's my theory.
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If... #2 was direct 12v source, how could he have measured 6.9v on that terminal? Even more puzzling would be how 6.9v became 12.6v on terminal #1
AFTER it went through 330-ohm resistor?
No, it's other way around. #1 terminal on resistor is input. Confirmed by him measuring +12.6v on that line. #2 terminal is output as confirmed by measuring +6.9v. This shows that resistor is working properly and dropping +12.6v down to 6.9v.
We can calculate how much current is flowing in that circuit by V=IR and plugging in voltage-drop:
12.6v-6.9v = 5.7v drop = I/330-ohms
I = 5.7/330 = 0.017 amp =
17 milli-amps
Then we can play what-if and see what output-voltage would be on resistor output terminal #2 if he was to replace that resistor with factory/OEM 100-ohm resistor:
Vdrop = 0.017a * 100ohms
Vdrop = 1.7v
Vout = 12.6v - 1.7v =
10.9v output
So voltage at output terminal would be 10.9v if he swaps in 100-ohm resistor. This is actually higher than 10v maximum test for anti-theft detection and bike may not start. Other people have had to install larger resistors to drop voltage below 10v before bike would start (EFI expert Greg737?).
This is NOT power-source line that powers Ignitor, it's purely for theft/hot-wiring detection. There's no minimum required voltage on that line, just maximum allowed. Which is roughly 10v, anything above it on grey-wire will cause Ignitor to refuse starting bike. Now we just have to figure out what's wrong with wiring that it's delivering +12v on that line to Ignitor instead of proper resistor-output of 6.9v.
I suspect someone else got this line confused with power-source and manually attached another +12v line to it after ignition switch.