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Old November 18th, 2022, 11:39 PM   #4
DannoXYZ
ninjette.org certified postwhore
 
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011

Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C

Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Your battery's too weak. Should be > 13v before cranking and not drop below 11v in order for ignitor and sparks to work. It's not getting charged due to fried stator connector.



There's lots of confusion on stator & RR function due to lack of understanding and regurgitating incorrect information. Most of which came from 2nd-yr EE student who dumped flunked paper on Aprilia forums about how RR works. He was talking about switching regulators like what PC power-supplies use. But most bikes use shunt-circuit linear regulators.



Rather than re-writing history of your stator-connector failure, how it happened and how to fix it, please review this thread and follow studies posted within:
https://www.600rr.net/threads/stator...ing-out.587484

Lots of testing and data gathered on difference between factory shunt-circuit and newer aftermarket series-circuit regulators. Bottom line is factory regulator runs stator at 100% full-time, generating lots of heat. Newer series-circuit RR flows only what's used and generates lots less heat. In fact on my VFR, when I installed series RR, I put it underneath tiny lithium battery as spacer so cables can reach like normal.

Use "the Drill" to test condition of your stator and RR. Burnt connector may have saved your stator from terminal damage. You'll want to tie stator wires across with proper western-union/linesman knot and upgrade to series-circuit RR such as SH-847.

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