Make sure the replacement CDI, is the same part # as the original one.
Look on the CDI itself, there should be a foil decal with the part #
Below is the information for US models, except California models
This Kawasaki 21119-1415 IGNITER is used on these models and components:
1995 EX250-F9 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1996 EX250-F10 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1997 EX250-F11 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1998 EX250-F12 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1999 EX250-F13 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2000 EX250-F14 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2001 EX250-F15 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2002 EX250-F16 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2003 EX250-F17 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2004 EX250-F18 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2005 EX250-F19 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
How-to test the CDI
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If you remove the non-red wire and ground that terminal of the coil there will be a spark. When you un-ground it there will be another spark. That is all the ignitor is doing but it is doing with a transistor when it receives a signal from the pickup coils. In between the pickup coils and the transistor is a micro-controller that determines the advance of the spark depending on rpm.
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And as long as your in the neighborhood, you might as well service the plug caps,
Write-up
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Even bad plugs should do something, unless they are totally shot.
Did you renew the HT leads, and disassemble the caps?
Make sure you disassemble the caps, and clean them, and yes the caps get cruddy.
Here my write-up,
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Short explanation: The inside of the hard plastic caps accumulate crud the can short out the spark. This can cause rough running or failure to start. Every time you do any work on the bike: remove them disassemble and clean them and renew the wires or at least the connections.
The long Explanation, Warning engineering information can cause Drowsiness.
The ancient cylinder design of the engine dictates that the spark emanate form the center of the combustion chamber. In order to get it there, the plugs had to be located down deep in a well between the cams. This well is a perfect place for dirt and moisture to accumulate. Then because there is no cooling water at this point the metal around the plug runs very hot. Surround this with the large amount of cool metal and you have a recipe for condensation. Now K did drill a drain hole between the fins to help (a little) but it often gets plugged up.
The moisture boils off the base of the plug and the vapor condenses on the cool plastic cap and the plug insulator. This moisture forms a easier path for the electrons to ground than jumping the gap at the plug to make a spark. Misfire.
This issue is right up there with Pilot jets as a cause of trouble.
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Here's some pictures that might be helpful. I took these when I replaced the wires themselves, as it was a good time for a write-up, and the wires were OEM from 1998.
Wires are just 7mm copper core, with clear silicone jacket
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