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Whiskey · July 6th, 2012, 01:57 PM

The directions given to you are not the most effective way to break in an engine, it's been the same advice on every kwak since at least the early 80s, from KLR 250s, to ZX-10s to Vulcans.

You need to put more pressure on it to brake it in properly, don't let it sit at idle too long or hold it on redline but vary the RPM from low to high & back down & back up.

Most of the break in is done within a couple of miles anyway.
How much CNC milling was done in the 80s? why follow a method that has not changed in 30 years, despite the advances in engineering technology?

I honestly believe there's one they put the sticker on it, to give riders a chance to get used to the new machine without wringing it's neck.

July 6th, 2012, 01:57 PM	#16
Whiskey ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Morgan Location: A city twinned with Kawasaki Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250, 2010 STR 675 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 1	The directions given to you are not the most effective way to break in an engine, it's been the same advice on every kwak since at least the early 80s, from KLR 250s, to ZX-10s to Vulcans. You need to put more pressure on it to brake it in properly, don't let it sit at idle too long or hold it on redline but vary the RPM from low to high & back down & back up. Most of the break in is done within a couple of miles anyway. How much CNC milling was done in the 80s? why follow a method that has not changed in 30 years, despite the advances in engineering technology? I honestly believe there's one they put the sticker on it, to give riders a chance to get used to the new machine without wringing it's neck.