Quote:
Originally Posted by Detrailers
Thx for all the input. I drilled out the caps today and adjusted the idle screws after thoroughly cleaning them. I also discovered what I think the culprit is, one cylinders float needle was leaking slightly, so I think what was happening is it would start and idle ok, and then fuel would slowly flood the one side which is what would kill the idle and then be tough to restart..
Since I'm there I'm going one step up to 108 mains and one shim under the needle. Everywhere I read said these bikes were lean and one step up on the needle and MJ helps them quite a bit. Please stop me if this is wrong but every liquid cooled Kawi I've ever worked on has been lean stock.
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They usually come lean no doubt. That's why I mentioned every Ninja 250 is different. I though my bike was stock until I did a tune up and found out I had K&N filter with no snorkle pipe and drilled airbox. I went with a jet kit followed the recommended setup, saved a bunch of time on tuning, and never looked back. It ran even better when I replaced the air box and added a slipon w baffle using the same dynojet stage 2 setup.
Shimming the needle should take the idle hesitation, but it doesn't always work. Whats been done to your bike? There's a lot of factors to consider. For example, 108 main jets might not work on a stock bike due to running rich, but it might on full exhaust and high flow filter. Carb tuning takes time, on a fully stock bike maybe just play with the idle mixture. I would also check for vacuum leaks that would definitely affect idle problems. Ive had many vacuum leaks on my bike throughout the years.
Also, are the valves in spec before tuning? I did it on my 08 before and if I remember it was shim under bucket, but your 07 should be easier to work on.