|
As far as my experience goes on tuning with the idle circuit, when the RPM lowers or is raised, you should then adjust the main idle, and tune the next carb.
Start with whichever carb is the main one (on my FZR it is carb #2). To test your tune, the bike has to be fully warm.
The testing is easy. Blip throttle. Revs should raise instantly and not bog. Raise throttle slowly and then chop it. RPM should drop straight to idle. Revs hanging higher than idle = lean. Revs dropping below idle or stalling = rich.
The engine was designed to run with the airbox. You should keep it. By all means modify it (remove airbox snorkel etc) but pod filters are one of the worst things you can do. Classic scenario - "Help! I replaced the main jets & idle jets with bigger ones! I also put pod filters on. Why does my bike run like ****!?" - Bigger jets mean more fuel yes, but at the same time you have to force more AIR into the combustion chamber, otherwise you run too rich and lose power. The airbox works because of vacuum. You lose this with pod filters.
Try using the airbox setup, the standard size idle jet, standard needle clip settings, standard main jet sizes, and standard idle mixture screw settings.
Change 1 thing at a time and re-test.
|