Quote:
Originally Posted by GAU-8
How would you recommend, going through the wiring? Regular soldering, and heat shrink? Or a mechanical connection, +soldering/heat shrink.
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Yup, I prefer to have all three components in wiring joint:
mechanical strength - wire knot is best, or crimp for laziness/convenience
electrical conductivity - solder, nothing beats real lead/tin solder. Also adds to mechanical strength of joint
weather-proofing - solder seals wire-end gaps from moisture creeping in between. Adhesive shrink-wrap adds to that protection and prevents black/green wire disease
To get power from headlight circuit, I connect to actual terminals in headlight socket.
1. extract terminal from connector without damage using
appropriate extraction tool
2. open up strain-relief slightly and feed new wire through (strip wire-end so that insulation goes under strain-relief). Solder new-wire to top of existing crimped wire. Gently re-crimp strain-relief. Add heat-shrink wrap to cover solder and strain-relief. Different type of terminal shown, but same idea:
3. re-insert terminal into headlight connector.
Repeat at tail-light connector for rear-camera. Wiring-length is shortest since power-source is near camera location anyway. Nice thing about this is lighting circuit is already fuse-protected, so no need to add separate fuse for camera power-feeds.
I used these
USB power-adapters with micro-USB output to connect directly to camera.