[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by austinninjabill

Hi:

I have a 1992 Ninja 250r that was given to me that I am trying to get running.

It was last registered in 2003, so assuming it hasn't run since then.

Drained tank of "gel", cleaned with muratic acid (works great on steel car tanks) to remove gunk and rust, then coated inside with WD-40 until I am ready to install.

Now onto carbs.

I am getting rid of airbox (need new rear tire anyhow), putting on K&N R-0900.

Have carbs torn down and chem-dip cleaned them.

Now I need to know how to set up the carbs with this filter (more airflow means more fuel needed as well to keep air-fuel mix in balance).

To summarize what I know:

Main Jets: *either a 110 or a 112 (100 is stock? *which one? *most say 110 is still a little too lean, 112 too rich, but better too rich than too lean)

Slow Jets: *either a 35 or 38 (35 is stock? *most say it doesn't matter, some recommend 38: which one?)

Idle Air Screws: *Left 2 1/2 turns out, Right 1 3/4 turns out (stock, most say no need to change?)

Needle Jet: *2-3 shims, click position 3?

It's the needle jet settings that I really don't understand.

When I took apart the carbs, the needle jet had no shims on it, though it looks like the shim/washer for the idle air screw is a perfect fit and could be used as a "shim".

And folks talk about a "click position" on the needle, usually 2 or 3. *What is this? *It is often but not always mentioned in conjunction with "FP", which I am assuming means "Factory Pro"?

Can anyone provide some insight on this needle setting (and the others)? *Do I need to upgrade to some kind of adjustable needle from Factory Pro or is the stock needle OK?

Looking for short answer. *Some threads on this topic have 200+ posts, just looking for "cliff notes".

​​​​​​​Thanks in advance.

Short answer. I'm running #110 mains on my 2007, no shims and a #38 pilot with stock needles. Stock air filter and Yoshimura pipes. Runs fine.

Bill