[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Does your LED turn-signal flash at double-speed?

No, flash at normal speed.

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

No need to puncture wires to measure, just back-probe connectors:

Yes I need, I understand that you say and I know that, but I don't want to remove the fuel tank. If I want to know if there is continuity to the key without dessasemble it, I need to puncture the cable close to the key to know if the issue is inside or not the key.

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

From studying schematic, I can't figure out how dash can possibly disable turn-signal lights. I suspect there's some non-stock wiring done somewhere. It could be there's criss-crossed reverse-polarity wiring done somewhere so that +12v is connected to ground of turn-signals with dash plugged in. One-way flow of LED would prevent current from flowing and blowing fuse. But it would also prevent LED from lighting up. This is similar to how alternator charge-lamps are triggered on autos with +12v going into both sides of bulb. If you remove ALL non-stock wiring and restore to 100% OEM wiring, bike will run perfect. If not, we do A LOT of testing...

A new test show me that the turn signals works fine. This is hard to explain. They always worked well because the test was always done with the front turns unplugged and therefore with the dash connected they did not turn on. The problem was, I discovered that if the taillight (position) was without tension, the built-in turns of the tail would not turn-on if the front turns are not connected. Then I connect the front turns and they work perfectly with normal flash (front and rear) but without position light and brake light.
In short, now if I connect the dash I have front and rear turns with the turn signal indicator in the dash (green light) and nothing else. If I disconnect the dash I have front and rear turns and also stop and brake lights and nothing else. When I say nothing else I want to say that the rest buttons, lights etc doesn't work at all.

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

1. First, show us photos of how you have LED lights connected to factory harness. And anything else that's not 100% factory. It's some modification away from stock that caused this problem, we need to inspect all mods. Even a piece of aftermarket electrical tape used to tie wires together needs to be documented.

I will show photos soon but I'm pretty sure I don't have a problem with turns. I have installed them for years and never had problems, they are well polarized with the correct resistor and dicipator. Each front led turns have a similar to this:
https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.ne...jpg&w=585&zc=2

I have a taillight similar to this:
https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/...q7v/s-l300.jpg

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Let's leave dash disconnected for now. Find wire-bundle leaving ignition-switch and trace it to 1st connector. Back-probe ignition-switch harness-side connector. Use test-lead w/alligator-clip to keep ground-probe of multimeter connected to battery-ground. Frees up one of 3-hands needed.

2. KEY OFF
BR = voltage ??
W = voltage ??
R/BL = voltage ??
W/BK = voltage ??
W/G = voltage ??
GY = voltage ??

3. KEY ON
BR = voltage ??
W = voltage ??
R/BL = voltage ??
W/BK = voltage ??
W/G = voltage ??
GY = voltage ??

4. KEY ON, backprobe fuse-box
W/G = voltage ???
O/G = voltage ???
BR/W = voltage ???
BR/BK = voltage ???
R/BL = voltage ???
GY = voltage ???
BR = voltage ???
W/BL = voltage ???
W = voltage ???

The states of these lines should give more clues to where problem lies.

Ok I will try to do that but do you know the color of the cable according the wiring diagram?