Both chem-dip
and ultrasonic
and micro-soda blasting. And poking out all bleed holes with soft copper-wire. Needs complete refurb with disassembly down to every last nut, bolt and individual part. Everything scrubbed with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner (including hidden secret passages in carb-body). Spray carb-cleaners no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Then ultrasonic soak everything. Micro soda-blast at very end to clean up. Adjust float levels with final wet-test. Replace all rubbers: fuel-rail O-rings, pilot screw O-rings, float-valves, float-bowl seals, and slide diaphragms if needed. Sync carbs and adjust idle.
Scrub secret hidden passages in carb-body. Scrub-brushes from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Bottle-Cleaning.../dp/B01N6QEINN
Scrub with PEA-based fuel-system cleaner. Way, way better than useless spray carb-cleaners without any chlorinated compounds any more.
Red Line SI-1
Techron Concentrate Plus
3M Max Strength Fuel System Cleaner #08814
Royal Purple Max Atomizer 18000
Gumout All-in-One (may be off list soon due to reducing amounts of PEA.)
Completely disassemble emulsion-tube and pilot jet. Poke out all lateral bleed holes with soft copper wire. Dried petrol turns to plastic and cannot be dissolved again. Must be mechanically scrubbed away. Also poke out all bleed-holes in carb-venturi towards float-bowl. Especially the mixture-screw hole.
Bike ran perfectly fine when leaving showroom floor. It will again when carbs are restored to factory-fresh clean with all factory settings.
That's a lot of work and requires lots of experience and equipment. I just send my carbs to this outfit for refurb every winter when I'm overhauling my race bike. Since I run in stock class, restoring carbs to factory-fresh condition is one of "mods" that make HUGE difference compared to others running with clogged carbs causing stumbling and revving laziness.
EDIT: Forgot to add
https://customcarbservices.com
Expert work, reasonable costs and fast turnaround!
