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Old October 20th, 2017, 05:48 AM   #12
tgold
ninjette.org sage
 
Name: Timm
Location: West Seneca, NY
Join Date: Oct 2015

Motorcycle(s): 2006 1050 Speed Triple, 2010 250 Ninja racebike, YZF320RR? Racebike

Posts: 556
MOTM - Nov '15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burphel View Post
I'm just baffled that you'd go that distance without trying the braided steel line first. I race with stock plus sintered pads and steel lines with no problems. Two finger braking on the end of the straights. Replacing the caliper/MC would DQ the bike from Supersport races in my club. I'm sure you'll get more stopping power with your setup, but you're also going to be more likely to lock and tuck, especially in a panic braking scenario. Sometimes weak brakes act like ABS .
The somewhat excessive lever travel was the issue for me. H ad maxed out the lever adjuster so I fixed it by welding a small nub where the adjuster contacts the part that presses on the MC piston. This moved the lever out to where I had more adjustment. I also put a little part from SV racing parts that moves the whole master cylinder away from the bar about 5mm: http://www.svracingparts.com/store/#...egory=10561192

No problem with braking power now. I do have an EBC floating rotor for weight savings and durability but just fixing the lever travel was the real key
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Last futzed with by tgold; October 20th, 2017 at 09:02 AM. Reason: Clarity
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