View Single Post
Old September 18th, 2016, 08:10 PM   #1
cuong-nutz
RIP Alex
 
cuong-nutz's Avatar
 
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
Join Date: Apr 2011

Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r

Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 2
Impaktech Stunt Crash Cage

I seized on an opportunity to purchase one for a discounted price during the Black Friday sale. Production takes time as these are made to order for the most part and considering the majority do not want to splurge on something of this nature and it's not a highly sought commodity amongst the masses.

Great packaging.
Powder coating looks great although there's a joint that is kind of thin and missed which showed some rusting after sitting in storage.

There's no instruction with the kit and it's kind of a no brainer on how to install it. The only issue you will come about is finding where to cut the hole for the cage to pass through the fairings.

Here's the parts out of the storage. what you see is a new hardware kit that includes the bolt that I had lost. The one they sent me was the wrong length, but that was quickly resolved.



I originally purchased a hole saw but that didn't work as it did not have a pilot drill to prevent the saw from walking which lift me with my dremel to use to cut the hole. To find the hole, what I did was punch the engine bolt out until it hit the fairing. Unfortunately, what I failed to realize was that the weight of the engine put leverage the bolt through the other side of the engine mount bracket which left my hole at the wrong location. Oh well. I'll get you a close approximate location for all you perfectionists who cringe at cutting up a perfectly flawless fairing. Just not now. I do have picture so you can deduce your own measurement.




I highly recommend that you insert the engine bolt from the left side to the right side. Reason being, this will save you time when you do valve checks and adjustments.

Insert the rear frame through hole bolts with the threads facing out because you'll have a hell of a time trying to tighten things down with no line of sight nor reach. Hand tightening this first will give you a second set of hands so you don't have to do a balancing act.

This aluminum spacer is just so the cage doesn't smash into your oil feed line.









My complaints and concerns:

The main bar needs to hug the body line sooner or closer as my knee shins constantly bang up against it when coming to a stop and dropping the leg. I recall one time at a light I couldn't remember where my rearset shifter was since I had mentally readjusted to not hitting the bar. Slight learning curve. I have mentioned it to Impaktech for them to make improvements in the near future that this could break bones in a bad mishap.







They also informed me that the new designs included a welded nut in the cage to make installation and removal easier as currently, trying to install the washer and nut on the engine through bolt INSIDE the cage tube rather tricky. I used a magnetic pick up stick along with a long screw driver to get the washer over the bolt.

Also, to secure the slider pucks, self tapping sheetmetal screws are included. I had trouble getting the screws to thread properly. That or my power drill was low on battery. I recommend that you drill pilot holes first.










The cage will save your fairings from scratches/breaks. It will save your handle bars/clip-ons, but I cannot say it will save you from rearset frame damage along with your exhaust. I have not tested a hard drop and I dare not test it yet in fear of breaking the cast motor bolt through hole.
__________________________________________________
HalfFast Racing Team
Serving Greater Houston Area Riders:WFO Riders MotoHouston HPC CMRA Ride Smart Fastline Lone Star Track Days
cuong-nutz is offline   Reply With Quote


1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.