Been doing some small stuff. I need to lookup how to sync the carbs or whatever and finish closing up the holes in the tank then I can run the bike and make adjustments from there. Just need to make sure I'm not forgetting any steps for setting up the carbs. If you see that I messed up on anything for measurements or did something wrong, lemme know! As a side note, doing the valves on the ninja gave me the confidence to do it on my car, and it only took about 3hrs
NOTICE: I've been reading about gas tank coatings and people are split 50:50 as to do it or not. If I do, consensus is Caswell. I'm choosing not to because if I need to then I can do it later, but I can't UNDO it. Everything negative that I hear about them is that they fail and clog fuel filters or carbs after a year or two.
Gas tank filler plug is 1.36in on bottom, 1.96in on top, could be a little smaller on top.
I'm planning on taking the other tab off the tank, sanding the paint all off, solder it back on, then weld or solder nuts with a bolt in them or something all the way up to the height that I need while I body-fill up to the height that I need as well. I'm still trying to run through my head exactly how I'm going to do this or if these are the steps I want to take. I need to get threads out to that distance, though and initially thought of using some sort of thread insert but I don't think that that would hold up well in straight body filler, hence stacking nuts or something.
Anyways, layout of the post will be rear pegs, then spark plugs, then gas tank, then steel stick, then carb adjustments.
I was looking over my bike to see if it had any other problems and noticed that the rear pegs were not aligned. I took a hammer and bent the bracket straight.
Just checking over the bike to make sure I'm not forgetting anything, and while retorquing the plugs back to 9.5ftlb, I had the idea to check the spark plug gap. Not sure how much of a difference it'll make, but I'd rather have everything be right than start chasing problems from the beginning. They were both too close of a gap. Forum said 0.6-0.7mm was stock so I set it to 0.65mm.
The $5 spot weld cutter drillbit that I got from harbor freight absolutely sucks. I'm going to have to get a second one to do the other side. I was really careful to not go through the tank with the bit and it took forever to cut so I filed the teeth on the bit about 4 different times until they started to break, and I flipped it over. Garbage, but it worked this one time. Didn't wanna pony up $45 for a set that I'd probably never use again.
Time to fill in the sheet metal screw holes! It's all coming together!
Taped off the opening so sanding material or dust didnt get in the carbs.
This stuff works pretty well, and is still definitely usable after using a bit for the lever housing before.
Globbed it on and used a pick to remove any super-excess so I had less sanding to do.
100 grit, took an hour to do both.
1500 grit. Now I just hope it doesn't fall off into the carb or something terrible!
Finishing carb assembly and adjusting. Bracket 1
blurry bracket 2
bracket 3, I had to bend this one into place.
Float height set to 17mm, which is at the 21 mark on this 6 inch ruler that measures flush. Grandfather gave me this ruler and it's often been very helpful. This means it has a depth of 43/64in, which is 17.06mm.
The floats were about 1mm skewed for both carbs, so I tweaked them a bit and now they look to be flush.
Pilot screw set to 2.5 turns out
One washer for each needle jet for stock height
