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Old October 13th, 2021, 12:49 PM   #28
Dizzy
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Dustin
Location: NC
Join Date: Oct 2021

Motorcycle(s): 250r

Posts: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
You've done 1st 10% of carb-cleaning job. Sitting for 10-15yrs definitely means full tear-down and restoration job. Disassemble to every last bolt, nut, individual component.

Scrub out all hidden secret passages with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner (carb spray cleaners no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds).
https://n4mwd.blogspot.com/2013/10/s...-passages.html

Poke out lateral bleed holes in emulsion-tube and pilot-jet. Just because you can see light, doesn't mean it's enough light. Bleed holes can still be constricted. You'll find poking out bleed holes with matching size soft copper wire will push out little dried petrol plastic plugs like little grains of sand. They can be translucent and transmit light, but completely block petrol flow. Also work from carb venturi side. Bend copper wire 5mm from end and use it to poke out bleed-holes in venturi. Those gets clogged too.

Then ultrasonic soak everything (except rubbers). Micro soda-blast everything. Reassemble with new rubbers. Sync carbs. That might be enough to restore to factory-fresh clean condition.

Otherwise, start from beginning and do it all over since you may have missed something. Many, many expert mechanics with decades of experience have had to remove their carbs 4-5x for ever deeper cleaning before their bike ran like new showroom condition. You might as well do full restoration to save yourself pulling 3-4 times more!
Yup after watching a guys 30 min video I missed the air idle ones that are covered from the factory I'm going to fully tear it apart because I believe it has to be a carb prob it would still start with fouled plugs
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