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Old May 25th, 2019, 06:48 AM   #4
95PGTTech
ninjette.org member
 
Name: Chris
Location: Bordentown, NJ
Join Date: Jun 2015

Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R

Posts: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Bike has uneven firing-order, so that may mess up tach if both are used. Factory tach uses just left coil, so any aftermarket tach can be connected similarly.

These dashes are pretty simple. In old days, I used a bicycle computer which was all self-contained and battery powered.

Recently installed Trail Tech Vapour dash. Took about 45-min with additional features of ambient-temp and coolant-temp. Only tricky part was aligning wheel-speed sensor just 1mm from wheel-magnet.

So all copycats of this or Koso should install similarly. If you're not good at soldering wires, might want to look up YouTube videos and practice. All wires should be crimped, soldered and shrink-wrapped for good electrical connection and corrosion resistance. Otherwise you'll have inconsistent signal that'll drive you crazy and waste tonnes of time troubleshooting.
Thanks for the help on the tach...I’m currently connected to the black wire that powers the factory tach I’m going to go with that first since I’m able to just repin the connector. You only do use one, thanks for the tip on left. The issue is just the sheet that comes with the gauge doesnt say how to calibrate the tach once it’s connected...that 1 coil is going to fire every revolution of the engine (waste fire) or every other (conventional) I don’t really know. In waste fire the signal is just straight to tach 1 fire = 1 rpm. In conventional the cluster would need to double the amount 1 fire = 1/2 rpm. It just says to “program number of cylinders.” When I light off the motor it should be pretty obvious if it’s idling right or at 650 rpm

For this rx2n I was able to do the whole job with just one solder...the factory dash doesn’t have a constant 12v source just two ignition 12v. So the second one (meter, cluster backlight) I cut it about 6” south of the connector and ran it to the ignition switch nearby for constant 12v. You could live without it if you didn’t care about the clock.

Here is a Hall effect sensor I did for a SV650 with a 08 gsxr front end. If you make the bracket such that the sensor can be threaded in/out, it’s very easy to spin the tire on the triple tree front stand and set gap with a feeler gauge. Make sure you route it well the rotor are the ground wire the first time
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