Quote:
Originally Posted by gokartmozart
I found the exact resister used on the switch (the color stripes indicate ohms , watts, etc) google "resisters" and all info on how to identify resisters is available....to get to my problem/question I'm trying to get in touch with someone who POSITIVELY KNOWS wiring . A diagram showing the ignition, cranking, charging, and cooling circuits is what will help. All the info I've seen so far looks like hack jobs, or wire colors are not identified very well (as in this thread). sorry if I ruffled your feathers. Again...if you KNOW wiring please post. I have over 45 years welding/metal fabrication experience that I can share if anyone might be interested, built several karts, fabricated and repaired many custom motorcycle parts, not to mention all the race car stuff. sort of like Ducatiman ...got lots of experience doing what I do
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No need to re-invent the wheel. There's wiring-diagram at
bottom of linked thread in post#5 above. Reverse-engineered from actual bikes and more accurate than factory FSM. Because FSM doesn't show resistor, it's security-feature built into ignition-switch.
There's only TWO types of wires to worry about at ignition-switch.
1. INPUT - brown wire coming in with power from battery
2. OUTPUT - goes to various circuits like horns, lights, etc. ONE of these, is a GREY wire going to the ignition computer
The way it works is the ignition computer compares voltage on GREY wire vs. BLACK/YELLOW wire directly connected to battery. If the voltages are the same, the bike's been hot-wired and it will refuse to start. So the resistor's presence is to signal that it's actually ignition switch that turned on bike.
You've got intermittent problems, nothing to do with the resistor, that's an all/or nothing, black/white, yes/no binary indicator. Either the bike starts or it won't and the condition will be permanent, not random (resistors don't change resistance day-to-day). You've got loose wiring, shorts, or bad connectors somewhere. Pull out the voltmeter and get voltages at every wire, going into and out of every connector.
Also get out hair-dryer and get the ignition computer hot. See if it stumbles then? There's been cases of overheated ones failing.
And... check carbs. I had problem where bike would run for 2-3 laps perfectly fine. Then it'd die like it ran out of gas, kaput! Found this little critter in my float bowl!
