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Old March 5th, 2016, 03:06 PM   #29
Mohawk
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Name: Chris
Location: Bristol, UK
Join Date: Feb 2016

Motorcycle(s): ZZR250, VFR800

Posts: 478
Yeah it lives. New clutch in, first start on bench, no knock ! I will test tomorrow, but looking good

The newer clutch bolts straight in, so all good there. As a minimum you need the following Nextgen parts;-
1. Outer clutch basket (i.e. The bit with the big gear & shock springs)
2. Oil pump drive gear (fits on back of outer basket, part # 16085 in diagrams)
3. The inner clutch basket
4. The inner clutch basket spacer (this does not exist in the old clutch, part # 92026 in diagrams)
5. All the clutch plates, 5x friction, 4x metal (inner & out friction plates are different from the other three !)
6. The clutch pressure plate & springs/bolts (springs are different from old ones, both length & gauge)

Only one minor modification needed to make this work. When I fitted the clutch cover, the clutch arm was rotating to much & would not fully disengage the clutch. Turns out there is a spacing difference between the old & new pressure plate, such that the clutch actuation rod which sticks out through clutch pressure plate central bearing, can travel to far before doing any work. To cure this, you need to add a 2mm thick washer on the clutch actuator rod, between the shoulder on the rod & the bearing, before fitting the pressure plate. The washer accounts for the extra spacing & the clutch works normally.

I didn't check the clutch pressure plate bearing thickness, they look the same but maybe the older one was thicker if anyone else does this it would be worth checking. If they are the same then rather than using a washer, you could find a thicker bearing with the same ID/OD to take up the space.

Some small advantages of the newer clutch are it feels lighter to actuate as in the pull force on your hand. Whilst I didn't weigh all the components, the fact that the newer clutch is a slightly smaller diameter with slightly smaller parts throughout it should be a little lighter & thus the engine should spin up faster. Anecdotal first start saw it idle at 3000rpm on the choke, which it has never done before, it always needed 4-5000rpm or it would stall !

I'll post a little video of startup shortly.

Last futzed with by Mohawk; March 6th, 2016 at 02:28 AM.
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