I have been re-reading these posts and I see what you are saying Danno....
hotter air occupies more volume than cold air therefore the warmer it is the less air is in the cylinder.... meaning it would be richer ...your right !
....
there's a problem with that theory though... Richer FAR will ignite well up into the 20:1 ratio's where as leaner FAR's only do down to about 15~16:1 max
what I'm experienceing is the cylinder cutting out entirely not blubbering
it's missing a beat or 3 and then hitting again meaning to me it is running lean in that area.... I guess the way to tell would be to pull the plugs and do a color check , I got the bike back in the shop and up on it's home made stand again
so I should be able to do that in the next week. I got as far as getting the gas tank off and the side pannels and I hooked up the aux. gas tank ....and then got to thinking "I wonder if my handy dandy 90 deg. screwdriver isn't actually turning the tiny pilot screws after all.....
so I want to turn them by HAND now to be sure.....maybe that is why I could not get any change in RPM maybe the screwdriver doesn't fit... because I ran into that problem last year ...none of my screwdrivers would fit in that tiny hole.... I thought no problem this screw driver is made for this.... and it uses the 1/4" snap in bits (the smallest one) but Maybe, just maybe although I am sure it is going into the hole maybe the blade is too wide to fit in the slot!
.....so I will have to hunt up my home made screwdrivers I made for it and see if I can change the idle speed by turning the fuel/air screw.... I bet it does !!!!! because that would make sense if the fuel air screws were left at the factory specks..... as it runs like doo doo there !!! I know, I did that when I first got it !
so I have something else to try for the moment !
.........
Bob.......