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Old October 21st, 2022, 09:36 AM   #72
InvisiBill
EX500 full of EX250 parts
 
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Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
Join Date: Jul 2012

Motorcycle(s): '18 Ninja 400 • '09 Ninja 500R (selling) • '98 VFR800 (project) • '85 Vulcan VN700 (sold)

Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 1
MOTM - Aug '15
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedrewski86 View Post
Not to mention, I don't like how the stock relay controls the headlight. I would rather run a relay that turns the headlight on with the ignition. I have the 12v accessory source right there at the front of the bike. I can run a simple relay from that w/ an inline fuse to the blue/yel wire at the 9pin connector under the tank, then use the brown ign wire to signal the relay. Done. And I would consider that an improvement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedrewski86 View Post
Hey Bill, interesting point. I wound up coming up with a rather elegant solution for this that did not involve any cutting of factory wiring: all I had to do was de-pin one of the ignition wires from a 4-pin connector near the front of the bike and wire in a Y with a 10amp fuse and a relay. Power comes off the 12v acc at the front of the bike and it's only running an LED headlight so everything is great now. I prefer the light coming on with the ignition now, and overall performance seems great. I should have taken photos when I was in there.

If you have details on this other output I would like to check it out. I'm always open to improvement!
I ended up making a whole new post about it, figuring it would be good info to have on hand. Headlight delay relay bypass

It's pretty similar to what you're doing, but simplified a little. If ACC is always hot, that should mean it's powered by the white wire coming from the MAIN fuse. Using ACC (with a relay triggered by the brown wire) would probably have slightly less loss than powering it directly from the HEAD circuit (which is fed by the brown wire coming from the ignition switch). However, the HEAD circuit is what directly powers the OEM headlight, so you're still at least as good as stock if you were to just move the blue/yellow wire to the other pin at the junction box (and bypassing the relay stuff is probably a tiny improvement itself).

One drawback to your approach is that the ACC fuse is now responsible for the headlight as well as any actual accessories you have plugged into those leads. If your heated gloves or phone charger blow the fuse, you lose your headlight too. Not necessarily a big issue for you personally, but I think it's less than ideal for general audience advice.
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