View Single Post
Old May 11th, 2018, 06:30 AM   #12
jkv45
Rev Limiter
 
jkv45's Avatar
 
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013

Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes

Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994Ninja250F View Post

If I were OP, if nothing else, pick anything that is -40 or -50 (and isn't Energy Conserving). After narrowing it down to only those, then decide on the "cold" viscosity. Just do NOT use that -30 stuff.

Per the service manual, the only approved oils for this bike are in the -40 and -50 series. -30 oils aren't in there.
Just to clarify - don't use "just anything" - meaning don't use an automotive oil.

The whole "Energy Conserving" thing really isn't an issue. It's only in oils that are 30-grade or less. The issue with current auto oil is the lack of additives (Zinc and Phosphate or ZDDP) that you need for an engine with non-roller valvetrains like most cycle engines.

Use a diesel oil, or any motorcycle specific oil, and you are safe.

It's usually better to run a lower viscosity oil than a higher one. Reason being, a lower viscosity oil flows easier, moves heat away quicker, and doesn't build excessive oil pressure. Many race motorcycle engines run straight 0W oil safely. While they may not expect to go 100,000 mi before being torn down, some are making over 300 HP and running at WOT for more than a mile. Plenty of time to melt down from any oil-related issue.

Really, a 30-grade isn't going to cause problems. Even Rotella T6 5W-40 will drop close to the range of a 30-grade after moderate use in a cycle trans. If you have an older, worn, engine (with large clearances) that needs the additional oil pressure (mostly at low RPMs), then a heavier oil is a good idea.
jkv45 is offline   Reply With Quote


2 out of 2 members found this post helpful.