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Old September 17th, 2016, 03:52 AM   #2
adouglas
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Join Date: May 2009

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Proper gear (i.e. gear that holds together in a crash) is constructed differently from ordinary clothing. The seams are different. The thread is (probably) different. Done right, it's not just about adding a layer of kevlar.

Good stuff here.

http://www.worsewear.com/site/seams/


And here:
http://www.bysonleather.co.uk/BYSON%...utLeathers.htm

Quote:
Seams are an inherent weak point in leathers. Look for kit with the fewest. Make sure that there are as few seams as possible at critical points. Here are some examples of the kind of seams to look (and look out) for. No doubt there are others that we have missed out - or simply not seen yet. Top stitching (the bit that shows on the outside) shown in "aqua"


Open seam. This is NOT the way to do it.


On leathers an open seam should be backed like this.


A properly sewn open seam may be double (left) or single (right) top stitched.


Single stitched, top stitched folded back seam. Not on MY leathers thank you.


Double stitched top stitched folded back seam. Much better.


French seam. Slightly bulky but fine for thinner leather.


French seam can also be laid over and single or double top stitched.


Lapped seam simply top stitched. Another no-no.


I don't know if this seam has a proper name, but there is a special place reserved for people who use it on leathers.

Notice how close the stitching is to the edge of the leather. As soon as the top stitch fails the seam will tear away.
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