Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinNinja
Nope. Read the diagram again. The whole thing and see where the Netral switch wire ties into the Clutch switch.
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Here's a copy of the (ginormous) PDF wiring diagram chopped down to just the safety switch circuits.
http://www.invisibill.net/ninja/250/safetyswitches.png
Starting at power and working toward ground for the starter circuit:
- Power from the starter button comes in on black/red and into the relay coil.
- Power leaves the relay coil. In the diagram it's yellow/green, but it's still just a trace on the j-box PCB at this point.
- It joins the main yellow/green at the T by the diode.
- The diode prevents it from going toward the green/black, so it can only go out the j-box to the actual yellow/green wire in the harness.
- The yellow/green wire connects to the common contact of the dual-throw clutch switch.
- If the clutch lever is pulled ("safe"), the switch bridges to the black/yellow ground wire and completes the circuit.
- If the clutch lever is released ("unsafe"), the switch bridges to the green wire to the neutral switch.
- If the transmission is in neutral ("safe"), the neutral switch closes to ground and the circuit completes.
- If the transmission is in gear ("unsafe"), the neutral switch remains open and the circuit is incomplete, and the starter won't work.
The yellow/green wire is the only way the starter relay can ground and function. The yellow/green can be grounded either by the clutch switch bridging to the standard black/yellow ground wire in the left control (lever pulled, switch plunger extended) or by passing through (lever released, switch plunger depressed) to the green wire for the neutral switch, which also must be in neutral to complete to ground. If you unplug the 3-pin connector at the clutch switch, the yellow/green wire is "broken" and the starter button will always be dead.
http://www.invisibill.net/ninja/250/...es_starter.png is a copy of the diagram with the igniter stuff removed, showing only the starter relay stuff.
The igniter's green/black wire can ground three different ways. Through the diodes, it is connected directly to the yellow/green to the clutch switch, the green wire to the neutral switch, and the green/white wire to the sidestand switch.
Grounding of the yellow/green wire was explained above. Any time the starter relay has ground, the igniter inherently does also, since it's connected to the same yellow/green wire at the T in the j-box.
There is also a green wire running directly to the neutral switch. The starter circuit can only see neutral through the clutch switch, but the igniter has a direct connection to the neutral switch. The igniter will function any time the trans is in neutral, regardless of the other safety switches' positions. If the neutral switch is closed, the green wire is grounded, therefore the green/black wire is grounded.
The green/white wire goes to the sidestand switch. When the sidestand is up, the switch bridges to the black/yellow ground wire, and the circuit is grounded. The igniter will function any time the sidestand is up, regardless of the other safety switches' positions. This is what allows the bike to keep running while you're using the clutch and shifter to ride.
For completeness,
http://www.invisibill.net/ninja/250/...es_igniter.png is a copy of just the igniter stuff. It's identical to the first one with the starter relay removed, as it technically uses all the circuits. However, its direct connection to the neutral switch makes the fork of the green wire running to the clutch switch redundant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinNinja
When you pull in the clutch switch, you're disconnecting the ignitor path straight to Black/yellow ground and connecting the Starter Relay coil AND the ignitor to the neutral ground through the neutral switch. That's where you're getting mixed up! They become one path....
As soon as the path to the neutral switch ground gets broken, IE, putting it in gear, you lose the ignitor path to ground and it dies.
Clutch IN, Neutral light goes out, no path to ground. Sidestand down, no path to ground.
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Releasing the clutch lever (pushing the switch's plunger in) disconnects black/yellow and bridges to the neutral switch. If the clutch lever is released, then it has to check if it's in neutral to be considered "safe".
As long as you have the clutch pulled when you shift into gear, you still have ground via the clutch switch bridging to black/yellow. The neutral switch opens and you lose ground on the green wire, but you still have ground on the yellow/green, from the black/yellow. Clutch lever pulled = direct path to ground.
You can sit there in gear with the stand down and the bike will start and run all day, as long as you're holding the clutch. As you release the clutch to start riding, the clutch switch opens and the bike dies, just as the OP experienced.