Hi Derek and welcome to Ninjette!
BTW - clutch switch has two positions to indicate lever open & closed (SPDT). Make sure you jumped closed position for testing. It's very tempting to leave them jumpered after you've made things "work". You'll want to not permanently jump and bypass any switches as people have died without these safety features. To pinpoint problem, trace and measure both positive & negative sides of starter circuit to make sure it's operating properly.
1.
fuses - pull out each and every fuse and measure resistance across its legs. If I had nickel for every time I've heard "
fuse looks OK", but fuse doesn't actually conduct electricity... Also measure 30-amp main-fuse at starter-solenoid.
2.
positive - with key ON, measure voltage at each junction between battery and starter. Battery -> starter-solenoid -> inlet to ignition switch -> start/stop switch -> starter button -> starter-relay -> starter-solenoid -> starter.
If you find power is gone at some junction, previous segment is at fault. Except between starter-relay and starter-solenoid. No power here usually means ground-terminal of starter-relay isn't grounded. That's done through series of interloc safety switches performing and/or logic.
3.
interloc ground switches - Verify continuity/no-continuity (resistance) to ground across switches: clutch-switch squeezed position, neutral switch, kickstand switch. There's a rod that moves when kickstand is up that flips kickstand-switch. Make sure that's aligned and working properly. Also make sure kickstand switch is properly positioned and working correctly when activated.