Quote:
Originally Posted by vani11a
The grey wire was cut from both sides of the connector so I had a little more room to work. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to do this correctly, I'm working a lot. I'll let yall know how it does. Also this is was temporary wiring until I got it running that's why it looks all crazy.
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It's best to do it right and permanent way 1st time around because you'll only have to do it once and it will work 1st time around. Least amount of time wasted for most durable and highest longevity of repair. Here's schematic for how ignition is wired on 250. The 300 has slightly different colour wires, but
only wire we want to touch is
grey wire between ignition switch and ECU. Notice this wire is
continuous between ign-switch to ECU with no breaks.
Here's how to get bike running, failure to follow each step to T will result in bike
NOT running:
1. orient bike in north-south orientation with nose aimed north. Post photo of compass on tank showing nose aiming north. Remember Earth has electro-magnetic field that affects all electronics that operates near it. You want to give your work every advantage and chance of success by orienting in direction that "bleeds" the least when wires are cut and end are exposed.
2. remove tank for easy access to wiring, post photo with tank off
3. remove ALL non-OEM wiring: toggle-switch, all extra non-OEM wiring, all wire
nuts. Post photo showing OEM ig-switch connector with cut-ends on grey, brown/white and any other wires you may have cut. Each and every wire has purpose; bike won't run if a single wire is disconnected.
4. repair all cut OEM wires with proper western-union/linesman knot, followed with soldering and adhesive heat-shrink weather-proofing wrap. Leave just
one cut on grey wire for inserting 100-ohm resistor. Here's video on how to do proper wire-joining repair; slide piece of heat-shrink wrap over before tying. No need for pre-tinning on larger-gauge wires. Knot should be tight and precise enough for 5-lb pull before soldering:
Link to original page on YouTube.
5. Then install 100-ohm resistors in-line with one remaining cut on grey wire after all others have been repaired. Use proper western-union/linesman knot on resistor legs as well. Don't forget to slide on adhesive heat-shrink wrap before knotting.
6. verify your work by back-probing grey-wire where it goes into ECU connector with key ON. What is voltage?
Idea is you want to restore wiring back to at least OEM spec quality, if not better. These bikes have enough problem with wiring and connector corrosion as it is with cheap specs for fast production, you don't want to make it worse.
Sure, there's 10000x different ways to do this that will "work". Above procedure is one way that is guaranteed to work 100% 1st time around and will last for decades. Remember,
"There never seems to be enough time to do it right 1st time around, but there's always time to do it AGAIN! Often times on side of road in total darkness and rain!!"