Now to do the other side
Start off by unscrewing the 4 bolts circled in red below, this will disconnect the brake master cylinder from the footrest and disconnect the footrest from the frame. Also remove the brake light switch from the footrest and disconnect the spring
The footrest will now be connected to the master cylinder, loosen a small nut at the end of the brake pedal and unscrew the footrest from the master cylinder.
I then loosened the bolt holding the brake line to the master cylinder and turned the MC around. Which looked something like this.
At this point I assembled the rearset just like for the other side by first attaching the fin like piece and then putting on the footpeg. After that I mounted the rearset to the frame again just like for the opposite side. This time the thinner spacers are placed on the reverse side of the rearset and loctite is added to the bolts once again.
This is a mock up of what the rearset would look like if I had kept stock brakelines. If I was doing this I would disconnect the brake line and turn it around to avoid the awkward angle at which it sticks up. Also I would reroute the thicker black hose going up to the fluid reservoir behind the brake line.
With the rearset now mounted it's time to connect the brakes. Here I ran into my only gripe with the Sato set. For whatever reason a return spring to place over the brake switch is not included, for $8 it seems like something that should be thrown in. It's a small price to pay and way better than constantly locking the brakes.
Here is a picture of the spring going over the switch on the master cylinder, the nut on the bottom is the stock nut from when footrest was removed. The nut on the top is used to adjust brake lever height.
Now it's time to screw on the little arm to connect the pedal to the brakes.
Now you place the thin end of the little arm into a slot at the rear of the brake pedal, slide on the provided washer and slip the e-clip into the groove.
Next you need to connect the the master cylinder to the rearsets, 2 small M6 hex bolts are provided for this, the top screw is 20mm long and the bottom is 15mm. These 2 bolts are circled in red below.
Now the last thing that is left is to make sure that the brake light switch works. Instead of using the stock bolt that goes through the banjo a pressure sensor is provided to replace it.
The instructions now call to cut the cable from the original brake light switch and to use the provided connectors to go over the cut wires and to connect them to the wires on the pressure sensor.
Instead here is what I did, I believe it yielded a cleaner result.
I removed the brake light switch from its connection at the wire harness.
Looking into the connector there are 2 small protrusions on the metal portions that can be pushed flat with a small screwdriver.
This allows you to pull the wires out of the plastic connector, which you can then recycle.
I used a small pair of scissors to make 2 small cuts on either side of the covering over the wires from the pressure sensor, I then pushed those wires into the plastic connector as far as they would go.
A little electric tape over the new connection I just made and then I pushed the new connector back into the wire harness.
The brake lights now work from the rear brake as well. Some people may not be concerned with this and not bother connecting the pressure sensor, I feel that it's important to have so I went ahead and connected the brake lights.
If using the pressure sensor to replace the stock bolt it's important to bleed the rear brake now. If sticking with just the stock bolt it may be possible that the brake doesn't need to be bled, I would do it just to be safe.
One final image of the rearset completely installed. As I was installing this I found that I can no longer use the heat shield from my exhaust because the rear of the break pedal where it connects to the master cylinder gets stuck with the brakes fully applied when the heat shield is present. Even without the shield there is not much room between the exhaust and rearset.
