Didn't we already test both sets of ignition wires? If you test signals at end-points and they're good, there's no need to test wiring.
coil
RED - you'll want constant +12v fulltime with key ON, wiggle harness between ignition-switch and coils to test for breaks or shorts.
coil
GREEN - use oscilloscope or 'noid light to check for grounding-pulses
coil
BLACK - use oscilloscope or 'noid light to check for grounding-pulses
Amazon -
solenoid light
Even better to test with oscilloscope, should get clean waveform like this with grounding-pulses all way down to zero:
I recall you cut green wire to test at one point? Strange test procedure. Make sure you
tie, solder and heat-shrink wrap that cut back together. No crimp joints, no electrical tape. Do it right, do it once, or else there's always time to do it again later. If you have bad signal, then inspect every single inch of wire from end to end wire all 360-degrees around to make sure there's no exposed section rubbing on frame or other wires. Also measure resistance between ends of wire. Have assistant grab and wiggle wire in between. Signal shouldn't change.