Thing you have to keep in mind is modern non-chlorinated carb “cleaners” are worthless at cleaning carbs. They no longer have any carbon-tetrachloride nor trichloro-ethane is what does cutting of poly-vinyl bonds in dried-out petrol. Liquid solvents are just carriers for these compounds. Unfortunately, that’s all that’s left in carb “cleaners”, carrier solvents.
I used to use carb-cleaners to clean my sprockets covers and it would drip off thick and black like tar with chunks of grime rolling off. Nowadays, the carb-cleaner drips off clear, maybe slightly grey and i have to attack the sprocket cover with screwdrivers, toothbrushes and gasoline. Such extreme measures are also needed for effective cleaning of carbs. Need to disassemble carbs down to individual components for thorough cleaning of each part:
Take apart emulsion tube into constituent parts: main jet, holder, needle jet collar. Note how needle-jet collar is oriented so you can re-assemble later same way. Unscrew pilot jet being careful to not lose spring, washer and O-ring. Might as well replace O-ring, float-bowl seals and float-valves.
Then use soft copper wire of various diameters to poke through all tiny bleed holes in all parts. Some people use guitar string to floss out secret passages in carburetor body. Then soda blast these fuel circuits at 100000 psi to remove difficult stuck on bits wire didn’t remove. Also soak in ultrasonic cleaner for several days. Then blow compressed air through all circuits and verify you've got air coming out other end.
These real cleaning steps restores carbs back to factory-fresh condition and bike runs exactly as it did when rolling off dealer floor with zero miles. If bike doesn't run like that, then carbs are not factory-fresh clean.
Here's good site for working on these carbs:
http://www.vulcangadgets.com/files/keihin_carb.html