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Old July 4th, 2018, 10:04 PM   #26
DannoXYZ
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Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011

Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C

Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
What year is your bike? The safety-interlock logic with clutch/neutral/kickstand switches varies depending upon year.

Ok, from your tests, it appears your meter reading means following:

0.L = open-circuit, infinite resistance & ohms, no continuity
0.0 = closed-circuit, zero-ohms, full-continuity

Let's re-visit some previous tests:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
2: The headlight bulbs; one jumped around a lot at first and settled on 0.00Ohm. The other one slowly skipped around from 0.0Ohm to 0.3Ohm
Which bulb read 0.0 ohms? The low-beam or high-beam? Whichever one it is, toss it; shorted internally. That's why your headlight fuse has been blowing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Edit 2: Ive only checked fuses by looking at them, and It looks fine. If i put the multimeter on It “Ohm”, It fluctuates then shows “0.L”
I think this shows your 30-amp fuse on starter-solenoid is blown! Measure it again. It should be OK if you're getting 11v at ignition-switch. Although you really should be getting full battery voltage.
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