Faisal, I like your mirror wiring setup, glad that bloody diagram got some use (I must've spent over an hour drawing that up in MSPaint). Been considering the same for my turn signals.
My current setup has Protons ('normal' flash) up front, BM integrated and stock signals in the rear, 1N4001 diodes under the dash and a replacement flasher relay. My BM rear currently performs exactly like yours is doing now. When I had all stock signals in, it worked like it 'should' with the red running lamps coming on between flashes. As such, I don't think it's the diode rating that's doing it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by draco413
dont use them i think that would be the best thing to do, those are meant for low amps circuitry
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Unfortunately the reason the diodes are there is that the way the 250's turn signals are wired results in all of the signals activating (left and right side) due to insufficient resistance in the circuit if they're all LED. However I agree this may be the source of the issue.
If you plan on leaving your rear stock signals in place/in the circuit, I'm 95% sure removing the diodes will solve your issue and still allow normal blinker function due to the resistance of the rear lamps (I installed my diodes about a month after the protons in anticipation of replacing the rear stock stalks, which I still haven't gotten to).
All that said, I've grown to like the on/off flash instead of red/orange. Seems less likely to confuse.