Quote:
Originally Posted by tgold
That 415 chain is also moving a 300 plus pound motorcycle not to mention what engine braking does to the chain. If your comparison to the torque applied to a bicycle chain was an accurate one then it would mean that a 410 chain would work for a 300 Ninja. It will not.
Many people think that any 415 master link will work with any 415 chain, 520 master with any 520 chain, etc. They will not. At least not for long. No matter the chain size, the master link is always the weakest part of the chain. There is more to a master link than the clip or rivet simply holding the sideplate on. It is a matter of clearances and the strength of the link as a unit. There is a reason that rivet type master links are used by race teams. It's because they are stronger. And when you're talking about using a 415 chain that wasn't meant to be used on a 250 Ninja that little extra bit of strength can make the difference between winning and watching the race from the side of the track
Your mention of 428 chain really doesn't apply because it is much stronger than a 415 chain.
I've been through the use of clip type master links, I know how to install them, and I've always used the correct link, yet I've still had them come off of some of my racebikes. And that is even after safety wire and silicone. Not worth the risk of a DNF for me.
|
Something I'd like to add on this, working in the powersports industry for awhile I've learned masterlinks don't like to mix and match brands. I've found different brands have their own measurements for their chains. Sometimes it works but a lot of the time the pin will be too big or too small, for example trying to put a RK masterlink on a DID chain, it's possible the pin will be too big to press through, also possible it slides in and wiggles around with room to play.
So when it comes to buying masterlinks, I go for the same brand AND the link made for that chain. If it's a DID MVXZ chain, I would run the MVXZ link as well.