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The Service Manual alludes to the necessity of getting the cotter pin in even if it means loosing the nut a little. I think the goal is to get the torque to be close but not exceed 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb). IMO the torque should be 67-72 ft·lb which would probably be more accurate.
•Tighten the axle nut.
Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
•Turn the wheel,measure the chain slack again at the tightest
position, and readjust if necessary.
•Insert a new cotter pin [A].
NOTE
○When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do
not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the
nut clockwise [B up to next alignment.
○It should be within 30°.
○Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past
the nearest hole.
•Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut [B].
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Although this does not affect the chain adjustment, there is also a little used technique outlined in the Service Manual which reverses the axle and axle nut.
NOTE
○Insert the axle from the right side of the wheel, and
tighten the axle nut.
•Install a new cotter pin.
When you insert the axle from the right side of the bike it makes lining up the caliper and rotor so much easier. It allows you to be able to hold the wheel and axle w/ caliper at the same time. Once the axle is almost completely thru the only other piece that has to be aligned is the adjuster on the left side. Re-install is a piece of cake and there are no problems with anything. I did notice when tightening the nut when it is on the left (chain) side, there is a slight movement of the axle to the rear as opposed the the front when the nut is on the right (caliper) side. Just my small observation.
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