ninjette.org - View Single Post - Start Up / Idle Issue After Driven Block Off Plate Install

1PaulSilva · September 2nd, 2018, 10:27 PM

2013 Ninja 300

I just installed the Smog Block Off Plate from Driven Racing and I am having some issues starting the bike it now idles very low.

1) Removed OEM Plate, left Reed Valves in place and installed the Driven Plate.
2) Removed Hoses associated with the OEM Plate and PAIR Valve.
3) Capped the hole left on the Airbox with supplied Cap from Driven.
4) Left PAIR Valve plugged in as to not throw an Error Light.
5) Removed Evap Canister and associated Hoses.
6) Rerouted the Hose from the Blue Dot on Fuel Tank that went to the top of the Evap Canister to the Throttle Body where the Hose at the bottom of the Evap Canister went.
7) Valve also left in place as to not throw an Error Light.

To get it started I have to open the throttle a substantial amount or turn the idle screw way in to bring idle up far enough to stay running. The throttle response is on point with no hesitation.

So I have a couple questions:

1) Has anyone figured out what size Diode would be required to bypass the PAIR Valve or shall I just order the one from Smart Moto?
2) If the PAIR Valve is left in place should the ports be capped or left open?
3) Same questions for the Valve at the Evap Canister.

I will be purchasing a PCV or PCFC very soon, will this rectify the problem?

September 2nd, 2018, 10:27 PM	#1
1PaulSilva ninjette.org member Name: Paul Location: Tulare County, California Join Date: Oct 2017 Motorcycle(s): Which one? Posts: 11	Start Up / Idle Issue After Driven Block Off Plate Install 2013 Ninja 300 I just installed the Smog Block Off Plate from Driven Racing and I am having some issues starting the bike it now idles very low. 1) Removed OEM Plate, left Reed Valves in place and installed the Driven Plate. 2) Removed Hoses associated with the OEM Plate and PAIR Valve. 3) Capped the hole left on the Airbox with supplied Cap from Driven. 4) Left PAIR Valve plugged in as to not throw an Error Light. 5) Removed Evap Canister and associated Hoses. 6) Rerouted the Hose from the Blue Dot on Fuel Tank that went to the top of the Evap Canister to the Throttle Body where the Hose at the bottom of the Evap Canister went. 7) Valve also left in place as to not throw an Error Light. To get it started I have to open the throttle a substantial amount or turn the idle screw way in to bring idle up far enough to stay running. The throttle response is on point with no hesitation. So I have a couple questions: 1) Has anyone figured out what size Diode would be required to bypass the PAIR Valve or shall I just order the one from Smart Moto? 2) If the PAIR Valve is left in place should the ports be capped or left open? 3) Same questions for the Valve at the Evap Canister. I will be purchasing a PCV or PCFC very soon, will this rectify the problem? __________________________________________________ 2013 Ninja 300, 2009 Ninja 250R, 2006 Heritage Softail, 2003 CBR600RR, 2001 XR100R, 1995 Dyna Super-Glide, 1984 VF750C, 1984 VF700C, 1982 CB650 Last futzed with by 1PaulSilva; September 4th, 2018 at 02:37 PM.