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Old July 7th, 2013, 12:22 PM   #23
n4mwd
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Name: D
Location: Palm Beach, FL
Join Date: Oct 2010

Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250R, 2007 EFI Ninja 250R

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Quote:
Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng View Post
I second that. Just out of curiosity did you check your flow rate? One of my float valves went out and instead of dumping fuel it restricted it in one of the carbs. Replaced them and voila. The only way I was able to tell they were bad was to check the rate of fuel flow. They looked fine and still 'sprung.'
I blew into the fuel line and rotated the carbs in my hands so the floats would flip over. They cut off and opened up the air properly. That's not the best test, but I think its OK enough to prove adequate fuel flow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Yes, I know how to set valves, no they're not wrong... If your engine is idling at 1000 rpm right after starting it the first time for the day, you're in need of choke. I always kept it idling around 2000-2500 with choke until it felt right, then I turned the choke off, and the bike idled nicely at 1500 rpm. Choke helps it start easier, warm up quicker, and run smoother during the first start of the day.

Headwind. Interesting. So it's a load-based issue? Can you replicate it on a hill during a gradual roll-on (not a snap to WOT)? This still isn't pointing to a carb issue for me. Maybe I'm wrong, but it doesn't seem like fueling.

Only time pods gave me issue from wind was with cross-winds; but it wasn't huge like you're feeling. It was just a little stumble, not significant performance loss and funny sounds.
Yes, I figured you knew how to do your valves - I was just pointing out that it should be wide for most people and narrow for racers. And since you hang out at the track all the time, I didn't know your preferred gap.

The reason I mentioned valve gaps is because it makes a big difference when it comes to starting the bike. Wide gaps with a warm day and the choke isn't needed that much. I have even had no-start conditions with the choke only to find that it starts perfectly with the choke. If you look at the video in which it was running correctly, its already idling at normal speed by the first stop sign. But in either case, the problem isn't the choke because it acts up when warm too.

Its hard to tell if its a load issue with the current situation. Before, it would stutter in a gusty headwind and never going up a hill. BTW, hills are in short supply down here. Actually, we call them "overpasses." But with any acceleration, the bike would stop stuttering. It was more prone to stutter when the bike was going at a constant speed.

But currently, it does it so much that its hard to tell. Its definitely worse in a headwind. Acceleration doesn't seem to fix it like it used to.

I'm going to swap the coils tomorrow and see if that makes any difference. Also, I think I will examine the condition of the kill switch to make sure its not corroded or something. I never use it so it might be bad. The kill switch only kills the coils and not the ECU.

EDIT: I'm not going to do any WOT tests with the bike acting up like this. It might damage the crank.
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