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DannoXYZ · October 29th, 2018, 01:42 PM

Did you restore wiring back to 100% stock? Removed all extra wiring, crimps and tape? Sealed up any exposed wiring with heat-shrink wrap? You might have short somewhere.

First, use this procedure to have it blink error-codes: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Fuel_i...des_for_EX250K

Will point you in direction for closer inspection.

EFI engines are extremely sensitive to vacuum-leaks and sensor calibrations:

1. Measure vacuum at MAP-sensor at idle with cold engine
2. Measure vacuum at MAP-sensor at idle with warm engine
(Use rubber T so MAP-sensor AND vacuum gauge can be connected at same time)

3. Measure voltage-output of TPS while going from idle to WOT (key ON, engine not running). Look for any sudden jumps in voltage. Should change incrementally and smoothly with no jumps or dropouts

4. Measure idle-switch in TPS. Should be connected when throttle released. Circuit open as soon as you twist throttle

5. Disconnect O2-sensor and drive around. Does it still stall?

6. Measure voltage going into fuel-pump at fuel-pump connector. With bike idling, wiggle wiring harness going to pump, does it lose voltage and die? Do road-test, Tape voltmeter on dash and drive around. If it stalls, what is voltage going to fuel-pump just before and after it stalls?

7. Injectors & connectors. Wiggle wiring going to injectors. Does that cause stalling?

October 29th, 2018, 01:42 PM	#11
DannoXYZ ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: AKA JacRyann Location: Mesa, AZ Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17	Did you restore wiring back to 100% stock? Removed all extra wiring, crimps and tape? Sealed up any exposed wiring with heat-shrink wrap? You might have short somewhere. First, use this procedure to have it blink error-codes: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Fuel_i...des_for_EX250K Will point you in direction for closer inspection. EFI engines are extremely sensitive to vacuum-leaks and sensor calibrations: 1. Measure vacuum at MAP-sensor at idle with cold engine 2. Measure vacuum at MAP-sensor at idle with warm engine (Use rubber T so MAP-sensor AND vacuum gauge can be connected at same time) 3. Measure voltage-output of TPS while going from idle to WOT (key ON, engine not running). Look for any sudden jumps in voltage. Should change incrementally and smoothly with no jumps or dropouts 4. Measure idle-switch in TPS. Should be connected when throttle released. Circuit open as soon as you twist throttle 5. Disconnect O2-sensor and drive around. Does it still stall? 6. Measure voltage going into fuel-pump at fuel-pump connector. With bike idling, wiggle wiring harness going to pump, does it lose voltage and die? Do road-test, Tape voltmeter on dash and drive around. If it stalls, what is voltage going to fuel-pump just before and after it stalls? 7. Injectors & connectors. Wiggle wiring going to injectors. Does that cause stalling?