Ok, 2nd DIY is under way.
The 2nd post is reserved for the final part which I can't do until I get the fairings back on which will probably be a week or so as all mods are on hold until my replacement tail tidy arrives.
Hopefully the photo's are a better quality and it may seem like I'm going overkill on the photos but I'm trying to provide enough shots/angles of the install as there is some uncertainty if this will fit on non FI 250r's
As in my last DIY, my start point is with all fairings off and the bike on the rear stand so I won't be covering that, but kkim has that already covered
Just to say in bold.....
YOU WANT THE BIKE ON A REAR STAND WHEN DOING THIS - THE KICKSTAND IS NOT ENOUGH
Tools you'll need;
set of metric allen keys
socket set to include 17mm, 14mm and 15mm A/F socket and wrench
14mm and 17mm spanner
torque wrench to be used at 40NM
soft headed hammer
So what comes in the box - it's all well packaged and the parts are made to a very high quality finish. They are very solid and sturdy too. Very Impressive. You can believe the hype "the only insurance approved crash protectors on the market" after seeing these up close.
and the instructions
Now the instructions don't mention this step but I would recommend that you prepare a jack to apply light pressure from below. This will help to support the bike and stop it dropping when your knocking out the engine mount bolt. I didn't do this at first and even though I was really careful, when the original engine mount bolt was almost all the way through, the bike twisted and dropped and I wasn't able to knock the replacement bar through anymore as the holes no longer lined up.
If you dont have a jack you'll at least want to make sure that the bike is on level ground. Mine was not and I attribute the little mishap to this. But even so, if I was to do it again, I would use a jack for support.
You'll want something softer in between the jack and bike - I used an old bit of mdf that I had floating around
Let's have a look where on the bike they will be mounting... as we'll need to make space for the bracket.
need to work on the left side first so lets have a look
You should be able see a familiar shape, this is where the large flat bracket will be mounted and we will need to remove 3 bolts to provide mount points for the R&G bracket
Note that the top 2 are obscured by the rectifier
the bottom of the 3 is the engine mount bolt, this goes all the way through to the other side.
The right side contains the nut for this bolt. It's on fairly tight but it's easy enough to remove with a normal socket wrench
and it will look like this
Now were ready to gently knock though the original engine mount bolt with the replacement, using a soft headed mallet of some kind,
YOU HAVE TO PREPARE/MOVE THE HOSE SO THAT IT'S NOT IN THE WAY OF THE BOLT COMING OUT
SEE HOW CLOSE THE HOSE IS, IT WILL STOP THE BOLT COMING OUT IF YOU DO NOT MOVE IT OUT THE WAY
It should look like this when the original engine mount bolt is out and the R&G Racing bar has replaced it
Need to move that rectifier now, but we only need to undo the 2 bolts securing it and then dangle it somewhere outta the way. Should look like this.
At last! We have access to the other bolts so we can mount the bracket. So let's remove them, They're on fairly tight but nothing to worry about.
They also have nuts on the other side, you can reach round like I did in the photos below and remove them. I didn't have to (maybe I got lucky), but I did not need to hold these nuts with a spanner to undo the bolts. You'll want to keep the nuts for use later on.
With the bolts removed we can finally mount the bracket so let's assemble it.
For the left side you want the
SHORTER cylinder and flat bracket
WITHOUT the cut in the back and 3 of the M10x30mm long cap head bolts
It will only fit one way, and the fit is superb, as good a quality as the woodcraft clipons. Use loctite on the 3 bolts and secure. I did these up as tight as was physically possible with the allen key
notice the angled ending, this is what will poke through the fairing in a very well engineered fit
this is where it will be going on the bike
So let's prepare the bolts and the left assembly, you'll need 2 of the M10x60mm long cap head bolts to go into the top 2 holes (the bottom hole is for the engine mount bar)
Need to put the THINNER spacers on these bolts next
The unit can now be slot into place like so, lining up the 2 bolts with the freed up mount points and the single hole with the engine bar
and we'll need the 2 nuts saved from earlier plus some loctite to secure the top 2 bolts. Again, I just did them up as tight as I possibly could with the allen key.
Now we've finished with those 2 bolts we can re-install the rectifier, but you'll find that the original bolts are not long enough and the rectifier does not sit flush with it's mounting plate any more.
So we need to use the other 2 fatter spacers and the 2 M6x40mm long button head bolts. (Note the original bolts at the top of the pic)
Should look like this
For now we're done on the left, Lets get started on the right side. Removing the top 2 bolts is the same as the left side so no need to cover that again, just keep the nuts
and we have the longer cylinder + flat bracket with the cut-out in it to work with which is assembled in the same way too - just without the spacers
and the mounting of this completed assembly is the same as the left too, woohoo! this DIY is getting a bit easier
Next we use the 2 self locking nuts provided and fasten them to the engine mount bar (the long bar going through the hole at the bottom) and do these up loosely for now with the thread sticking out the same amount on both sides.
And I've just loosely put the aero shaped sliders on the end for now so I don't loose any parts.
There are some nice slick end covers for the aero sliders so they won't show the hollow or nuts, I just left them till I'm finished.
Torquing and finishing the DIY to follow next week
