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Old April 20th, 2020, 07:09 AM   #7
jkv45
Rev Limiter
 
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Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013

Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes

Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
No, it's fine get it.

"Gummed up" is due to process, not just sitting around. Typically caused by:

- overheating. This distills oil, burning off its lighter components and causing it to thicken.

- letting oil-level get too low. This causes what little's left to get overstressed and overheated. Leading to sludge.

- too long between oil-changes. More of concern with dino oil as it breaks down faster and burns from the start. Full-synthetics can go 5k-10k miles without any issues. Honda says 7.5k-miles or 1-yr for synthetic on my '06 CBR600RR whichever is sooner.

- using crappy dino oil. These oils have lower flash-points, lower viscosity stabilizers, lower extreme-pressure/heat additives. Under normal use, they will lose viscosity AND darken and burn and stick to surfaces causing sludge. Under extreme use, they will do it even quicker. Mileage doesn't matter, dino oil burns from mile-1. Just say no and use full-synthetic always.


(SNIP)
^ Thanks Danno!

My thoughts on the subject - exactly!

I work on a lot of engine parts, and see the insides of covers, pans, etc, and can tell you that running cheap conventional oil will lead to deposits. Burned deposits in the hot areas and sludge deposits in the cold areas.

I run synthetic oil in everything, and change it at reasonable intervals. My engines look just like Danno's inside.

I just don't get the thinking behind owning a, sometimes expensive, vehicle and using the cheapest oil you can get for as long as you can. Especially with a cycle engine. The overall quantity of oil is lower and the stress on the oil is higher.

If you don't want to go full-on cycle synthetic, just use Rotella T6 and you're good.
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