Quote:
Originally Posted by n4mwd
You can use any kind of degreaser. Purple is kind of a generic name. I have used Easy Off oven cleaner for stubborn parts. Just don't use any kind of steel brush or knife or screwdriver or steel wool, etc.. You should also be aware that too much purple will remove the paint from the engine as well if it gets on it.
Didn't I already post the torque values here?
Open the engine by lifting the bottom off (engine upside down). Break the seal by prying off with a large screwdriver or pry bar. If it doesn't pry loose easy, there is still a bolt holding it. Look for the pry point which is near a flat spot with '#' (crosshatch) markings.
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I already cleaned most the gasket surfaces just with a paper towel and some brake cleaner applied to the paper towel, and some fingernail power. And used a scotch-brite green pad to clean off some carbon deposits. *not the ones on the cylinder walls, i decided not to mess with those since they're only above the rings and there is no lip present when doing the fingernail test. so no reason to hone i guess since i'm reusing my old rings.
Sorry, you did post the torque values
, for some reason i only saw the last page of it where it had the generic torque value for thread diameter. Thanks!!! That was my main reason for ordering the manual, but i guess since i already ordered it, it doesn't hurt to own it.
ok thanks!! I already have the engine upside down, due to an instruction you previously had said, but looking at the parts diagram made me question it. i was able to break it apart already but the oil pipe banjo bolt restricted me from taking it apart, now that i got the flywheel off and the banjo bolt off it should come right apart. i was just hesitating because of the clutch basket. But if splitting it allows me to bypass removing the clutch basket, i see no need to remove it, it works perfectly fine and is not giving any signs of the infamous kawi clutch rattle of doom.