[adouglas]

If you're even remotely handy with a wrench, you can easily install your own hitch. etrailer.com has everything you need, right down to plug-and-play wiring harnesses. Took me all of about an hour to do. I did wind up buying a different ball mount after the fact because the trailer wasn't level with the first one I got.

I've never rented the U-Haul trailer but a lot of people do with good success. It's bigger and heavier than what you'd likely buy, but drive smart and it's not an issue. I'm sure you've seen photos of my tiny clown car with its 109-hp engine... I've successfully towed two bikes with it.

The thing to remember if you buy a trailer is that you'll need a place to keep it. Due to marital requirements I can't litter my yard or driveway with toys, so folding was a requirement for me. Basically it comes down to the Kendon or Harbor Freight at a small fraction of the cost... so HF was the obvious way to go. It lives in my garage.

I bought mine used for $300 or so, corrected what was wrong with it and added a few bits and pieces. It's served me very well for four years and shows no sign of giving up.

You'll also need a good ramp (I got a 6' tri-fold ramp from Tractor Supply for about $120), a chock or Pit Bull TRS, plus various straps. I highly recommend a wider ramp. You see a lot of people stepping up on crates and such; that's not for me. I want a ramp wide enough that I can power-walk the bike up, standing beside it.

There are right ways and wrong ways to load a trailer. It's a good idea to not have too much weight forward because it increases the tongue load. It's an ABSOLUTE REQUIREMENT to not have the c.g. aft of the axle. If you do, you'll have a really exciting and short trip. From my original rig, I wound up moving my chock aft about a foot and now it's perfect. Your goal is to get the tongue load to, oh, say, 50 lbs or so. Light enough to lift, but not so light that the trailer will want to fall on its tail if you pick up the tongue.