I have finished the wiring.
I had a couple bozo moments. First I thought removing the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay would kill everything. So I removed the fuse and wired in my lanyard kill switch. But I have somthing back feeding voltage to the ignition.When I removed the pin from the kill switch the engine ran poorly and the dash went out.
So I put the fuse back in and cut the brown black wire going from the IG fuse . Now when I pull the pin everything turns off.
I rewired the nitrous fuel pump. It now does what I want when I want .
Next, I had a problem with my nitrous controller. I shipped it to England for an upgrade and to be checked out. It was working perfect for them and will be back soon.
So I began checking my wiring. It turns out I clamped a ground to the painted serface of the frame. It showed 13 volts on a meter. So I rigged up a high beam headlight and tried it. No current flow. Once I had a good ground then I had a nice bright light.
So now I need to reinstall the nitrous computer and test the nitrous system with a static test.
The static test is how the system is checked.
Fuel is under 2 bar of pressure. In each manifold there is a fuel atomizer. I can adjust the pressure from below 1 bar and up to 4 bar. But start with 2 bar
For the nitrous side
I install a nitrous jet. From experience I have found a single #100 jet is about 20 hp with 800psi bottle pressure. And 2 bar fuel pressure.
For the test I bring the warm engine up to 4000 rpm and hit the button. If the engine jumps nicely to 12000 rpm,then I am good to test it on the track. If it bogs down I need to reduce fuel pressure. If it spikes the rev limiter I add fuel pressure. Very simple to adjust.
http://youtu.be/OxIZyXmn288
This is a good test. I keep reving the engine because it tended to flood before I switched from gravity feed to pressurized fuel. Only on the static test. Never on the track. Not a problem now.
Once the static test is done I install a 282cc engine and tune the carbs and nitrous. Then I will go to the dyno.