Quote:
Originally Posted by SibSerge
Makes total sense. Your have the older style steerer tube , I assume?
I use a similar approach on my old Peugeot. Luckily they figured it out and in the new designs you can “preload” it with the headset cup through the bushings and the stem then just tighten the stem. Makes it a breeze to set.
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Yup, most of my bikes have 1" threaded steerers (only one is newer threadless design with clamp-on stem). I prefer to use needle-bearing headsets for durability and light weight.
I've found, like many bike-mechanics, that if you hold adjustable-cup steady while tightening lock-nut, it increases bearing-preload slightly and ends up tighter than you want. So it's simple process to do push them together to lock and adjustment ends up perfect.
It's opposite on threaded adjustable-cup bottom-bracket. Tightening lock-ring pulls out adjustable-cup and loosens bearing. I use two tools and tighten both adjustable-cup and lock-ring simultaneously to maintain same bearing pre-load.
I think in your case, previous shop messed up because they didn't fully lock adjustable-cup and lockring fully together. This allowed upper triple-T nut to finish removing slack between them and increase bearing-preload. I use fishing-scale to pull on lower triple-T (90-degrees to rotation) to measure bearing-preload/drag before & after installing upper triple-T. Shouldn't be any difference.