found a few variations, but generally rich
An alternative...totally disregard the number of turns, opting to find the sweet spot, cleanest idle (usually the highest RPM) for each cylinder, bike fully warmed and running at idle.
As I just posted in another thread...while running, lightly seating a given screw should cause that particular cylinder to drop off...progressively backing it out again should restore the cylinder to running again. Find the sweet spot, each side, adjust idle as required within the process if necessary.
If you lightly seat a pilot screw with no accompanying RPM drop off....something she's a no-good. I'll surmise this may be the case with the aftermarket screws. Let us know how you do.
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