Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick9611
i had drop outs on voltage but not much. if coil was 12.80 volts it might drop to 12.60 volts. had small dropouts at ignitor location and key switch.
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Not sure what you're saying here. If coil was 12.80v, what happens to make it drop to 12.60v?
Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick9611
while wiggling the 10amp ignition fuse blew. do i need to bite the bullet and get a $300 wire harness?or do i need to totally unwrap this harness and really check it closely?
where is the main frame ground for the harness?
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AHAH!!! There's smoking gun! A short in ignition circuit! Fits evidence & symptoms exactly! That's why it died when hitting big bump (wiggled wiring harness). And why it sporadically comes and goes randomly. Seafoam "cure" was just coincidence and red-herring.
Main harness ground is on black/yellow wire at right-rear with connector. It's fine, so don't waste time on it. Blowing fuse is sure sign that ground is correct since shorted wire flows current to ground.
Ignition fuse & circuit provides power to ignition-coils. So having short in that circuit would would definitely affect ignition. Now, there's absolutely zero need to unwrap harness to inspect. Because it worked perfectly fine when leaving factory and would continue to work for long time. Leave factory-wrapped sections alone!
Issue was caused by modifications to harness. Without these mods, harness would still be 100% functional without shorts.
So simplest and easiest fix is to restore harness back to 100% stock (or buy 100% brand-new stock harness from dealer). Find all areas that have been modified from stock configurations with cutting/crimping and repair with proper linesman splice/knot, soldering and heat-shrink wrap to restore back to original functionality. It's done this way in pro-motorsports, aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability. It is
not accidental that crimp-connections are forbidden for these applications. Imagine consequences of flying Raider over enemy territory and ignition-fuse blows and turns off your ignition!
Link to original page on YouTube.
Be sure to slide heat-shrink wrap over wire-end before tying. When every last crimp connection is removed and wiring restored back to stock with straight-through functionality, your bike will run like brand-new when it left showroom floor.