Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45
Yes - that would suggest toasted bearings, most likely the big-end rod bearings - which would mean the crank journals are most likely damaged as well.
That's where it gets expensive, and that's why most of the time it's a much more cost-effective route to pick-up a different engine. I sold one last summer with low miles (no carbs) for $250. You can't get very far with $250 when it comes to major rebuilds.
These bikes can be a dime-a-dozen, so you need to be careful how much you put into them if you don't want to lose a bunch of money when you sell it.
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Thanks I am looking around for a motor both newer/old gen
Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind
If you do decide to go through the engine that you have, this link is usually helpful.
http://www.rcramer.com/bikes/ex250/rebuild_notes.html
I've been down that road. Did a bunch of top end work. Spent more time and money than I should have. Engine swapping (and I even used a new gen engine, which added some extra work) was easier. If I hadn't been so damn lazy and busy, the swap would have been a single day event.
If you're familiar with the bike and prepared for the job, you can have it stripped and engine out within an hour or two. |
Thanks Chone, I do happen to have a motor locally that is a 08-12 for 200$
If you had a thread of how you did that swap it might be useful, I On the fence still but leaning towards the rebuild of the pistons/walls are not damaged.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt
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Thanks Ghost, I didn’t realize there is a screen on the bike I will go though it later today.
Though I did do the rocker arms 3-5k ago when I first got the bike for maintenance, and pull the carbs to make sure they were clean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet
You might consider pulling the cam chain tensioner off, clean it and reinstall it if it doesn't have any unusual wear on any part. I bought my 2007 last March and that was one of the first things I did. Just be careful removing it. Back out the two cap screws 1/2 a turn at a time or it will cock and lock in place. When you reinstall it use Permatex locktight blue on the threads. I placed a light film of lithium grease on all the moving parts of mine. You shouldn't need a cam chain at 15K miles and you don't need to clean the chain. The metal particles in the oil is a concern. Pull the sump screen and see if there is a-lot of metal on the screen. If there is you may have a bearing or piston issue.
Bill
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I will be sure to check this when I am out there I might remove the clutch to see do a bit of investigation.
Thank you everyone home to have this going in 2-4weeks.
I do have a boroscope I sure for Work and will inspect the pistons and maybe down the chain channel if I go that far.