Quote:
Originally Posted by GreasedLissik
If you had a thread of how you did that swap it might be useful, I On the fence still but leaning towards the rebuild of the pistons/walls are not damaged.
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Not really a thread, but there's a few quick pointers.
I used one newgen mount and one pregen mount because the newgen boss is wider. Drill out the weld that holds the coil mount to the engine mount and use that on each mount without being welded on. The holes line up still.
Then I used a pregen radiator to clear the fairings and made small brackets to adapt to the one newgen mount. The newgen radiator will not clear the pregen fairings properly.
I used newgen plug boots to seat on the plug and in the head properly. Newgen leads as well. Pregen coils. Direct swap.
Newgen drive sprocket. Newgen sprocket guard.
Electrical connectors are plug 'n play. The neutral switch connector wire was a little short to meet up with the same clean path as it had on the pregen because there's no cut in the sprocket guard. I should have added in a little extra length... but it worked fine if routed carefully.
The only odd thing is there's not really a good mount for the radiator fill cap. It hangs there just fine, but it's not 100% as solid as it was before.
Aftermarket newgen exhaust. Doesn't clear the pregen chin fairing like you'd expect. If you get the most tightly wrapped header you can find that hugs the block and case tightly, you might get lucky and it might clear. I went without chin fairing because lazy.
Kleen air system blocked off.
Pregen radiator boots and carb boots. Pregen radiator. Pregen carbs. I think I ended on Keihin 108 main jets with a modified airbox lid, aftermarket exhaust, and +2mm bored engine. That is a logical spot considering the factory jets for the newgen are 98's.