Quote:
Originally Posted by falonso0
Ok no problem, step by step. I also remind you that the stop light only came ON when we disconnected the dash, which is weird anyway.
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Yes, you have wiring problem with lighting circuits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by falonso0
That's the weird thing and it doesn't make sense to me.. I don't live near the ocean but maybe it's a humidity issue. Anyway I do not understand why a single connector burned that way and the rest did not? Could it be because brown connector was lazy?
Do you think it is safe to get the pins to contact again after fixing?
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Brown-wire carries most power across connector: starter circuit, ignition-circuit (coils), headlights & taillights. When it tries to pass through corrosion, it heats up most. Could also be you got some some wires shorted during taillight install. Might not have been high enough to blow 30a main fuse, but enough to really cook that connector. Major problem is specs used by Kawasaki, highest-rated 1/4" spade connector is 24a w/10ga wire. But they used it in 30a circuit, it will fail before fuse blows!
Quote:
Originally Posted by falonso0
 
Does it seem to you that this is just a corrosion issue and there isn't something else? |
WD40 is too thin. Try to find real dielectric grease. It will seal connection against moisture much better than WD40.
While you're looking, get some of this
DeoxIT liquid or spray version. It's chemical cleaner that dissolves white corrosion. Easier to do on female connectors that aren't easy to sand. Use on both sides after mechanically removing as much corrosion as possible. Should be OK after full cleaning to re-assemble and test.
After we get this fixed, you can seal connector even more by wrapping it completely in electrical tape.