Thread: Cooling Issues
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Old May 4th, 2013, 10:08 AM   #3
FvnnyL3tt3r1ng
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Name: Justin
Location: Florida
Join Date: Aug 2012

Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 2001

Posts: A lot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
My remarks in red:

1) Bike gets very close to or even in the red zone when the radiator fan is running while the bike is stopped.
The thermostat is not opening full-flow into the radiator as it should:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cooling_system

2) Bike runs hot even during cool temperatures and while cruising along
Coolant flow is restricted at thermostat; hence, heat transfer from radiator into airstream is impaired.

3) Fan has to be jumped to start as it will not start on its own
As the radiator and the cylinder are partially isolated, the coolant leaving the radiator remains cool enough not to trigger the fan switch.

4) The temp gauge shows the bike cooling down abnormally quickly after I turn her off for a few minutes.
There is a hole in the thermostat case that allows natural flow of hot coolant into cooler coolant in the radiator.


I ran a continuity test between the two pins on the thermostatic switch and found it was not closing the circuit when the bike was very hot.
This is not a switch but a variable resistor. Its ohms vary with coolant temperature, allowing more or less Amps into the gauge.

I am guessing the thermostat went out but it seems strange the thermostatic switch and the thermostat would go out at the same time.

Since the fan does run via a switch I am assuming the fuse is fine and there is no need to check it?

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ling_system%3F

Is there an easy way to see if the water pump is operational?
Since it is direct driven and centrifugal, the pump is always operational. The amount of flow it handles depends on the restriction of the circuit. Closed thermostat = minimum coolant flow.
As for the thermostatic switch- when I ran a continuity test when the temp gauge read very hot I still got an open circuit with the continuity tester. Perhaps the circuit never gets fully closed (and a resistance remains) but I would expect a lower reading than the "1" my meter reads which I believe is equivalent to 1k ohms or greater.

Do auto/bike shops normally carry this thermostat?
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