Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII
I've been there... hottest place on the planet with that high humidity !
...but I've had engines that I've tore apart after setting 10 years and not a speck of rust on the cylinders and they were sitting with no exhaust pipe, just a header pipe on them and a board over the carb.... not the best for keeping moisture out.... .... by now with his running it the cylinders would be clean and shiny but the rings may well be stuck to the piston....
besides they cylinders are supposed to be coated with a hard coating aren't they ?....or does the coating thing go back that far in years?
.....
anyway.... it's a luck of the draw thing could be anything from really rusty to clean as a whistle....
I've taken old briggs and stratton engines that were laying on their side for 20 years and got them running with very little work cylinders completely rusted up crank frozen and in general done for.... i honed the cylinder drenched it in WD-40 and broke it loose and got it turning.... started it with quick start and it ran great.... I still have that motor ! LOL
.....oil is amazing stuff when it coats parts it usually does it very well....
and rust likes areas that are exposed to oxygen there's not alot of that inside a sitting engine but there are oil fumes....
.... outside where the air can get to it...that is a whole nother story, I've seen bare metal rust up in 2 days ! completely.....( bar stock is bad about that!)
..... i need to get a compression tester the only one I have is a press on type and it's no good for the Triumph....
needs a screw on hose !
.....
Bob........
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But Bob the Briggs and Stratton block were also all aluminum cylinder liner unless it was Pro Block you get no rust but valve may rust and was notorious for getting egg shape and burning oil to.
I have buddy 85 C10 350 truck with head off and pan pulled just sitting around for 1 year the cylinders rusted even know I spayed them with WD40 and or PB B'laster about every 3 months