Hmm, 0.1-ohm across fuse is some resistance, should be closer to 0-ohms. But that could be meter calibration, so let's count fuses out.
With proper power at coils, it could be bad coils. Though chances of both of them being bad is extremely slim and even slimmer chances that they go bad at all. Measure:
1. Primary coil-winding resistance = 2.2-3.5 ohms
2. Secondary coi-winding resistance = 10-16k ohms
3. battery voltage bike OFF
4. battery voltage while cranking
Proper power at coils and working coils then leads to conclusion something's bad at ECU. Either ECU itself or crank-trigger signals from pick-up coils. Let's test:
5. crank pick-up coil resistance = 100-150 ohms
6. ground at ECU. Measure resistance by back-probing ECU connector and get resistance between BLACK/YELLOW terminal and chassis-ground.
7. power to ECU. Key ON, run-switch ON, measure voltage at RED terminal at ECU connector
8. ECU grounding pulses to coil can be tested with 'noid light. These have internal amplifier and duration-extending circuitry to actually flash light long enough for humans to see.
Amazong - OEM noid light.